Construction Report part 2

I took some photos that I was going to include with the previous post, but recently returning from a trip to NYC I still had my camera set at the highest quality image setting. This yields a photo that is 5184 x 3456 pixels and about 6.5MB, and they take forever to upload. For photos I intend to post on this blog I set the camera to a lower quality photo, usually 1920 x 1280. This makes the photos much easier to upload. So, I had to take the photos for this post and resize them in Paintshop, which takes more time than I had available when I created the post.

I forgot to mention in the last post that I recently acquired a large stock of sheet styrene, thanks to a blog post by fellow model railroader and blogger Chris Ellis, who lives just a few miles from me. There is a local plastic supplier called Piedmont Plastics and Chris mentioned getting some sheet styrene from them. I stopped by one day recently and walked away with about $75 worth of plastic. The folks there were very friendly and the stock manager gave me a quick tour of the place. Their warehouse is a model railroader's fantasy, with pretty much any plastic product (not just styrene) you can imagine in stock. If they don't have it in stock, they can get it.

Piedmont Plastics warehouse 

Piedmont Plastics warehouse

I picked up several 4' x 8' sheets of styrene, in .010, .020, .030, and .040 thicknesses. They also had some scrap 1' x 4' .060 cuttings which they sold me for $1.75 each, so I bought 10 of those. They gave me (no charge!) a scrap 1' x 5' sheet of clear .040 acrylic as well.

Considering Plastruct charges $6.95 for a four-pack of 7" x 12" sheets of .040 (a little over $.08 a square inch), the $17.95 price of a 4' x 8' sheet at Piedmont can't be beat (about $.03 a square inch).

Basement Prep

Before I even cut lumber, I added a 20 amp circuit with two outlets on the ceiling in the layout area specifically so I can run my power tools such as my table saw, drill press, and band saw without worrying about other electronics in the house. I also wanted to add some LED shop lights above the power tools. The table saw alone, which pulls 14.7 amps, was on a 15 amp outlet that is shared with another set of outlets elsewhere in the house. My small breaker box had a single empty 20 amp breaker left, so I added two 20 amp GFCI outlets to the ceiling since this is an unfinished basement. I do not intend for these outlets to be permanent because right now the power tools are all occupying space that will eventually be filled with layout and I will have to move my shop area to another location in the basement. For the moment though, having the tools where they are is handy. Eventually I will be upgrading my breaker box entirely, not only to give me the ability to separate the train room power from the rest of the house grid, but because the rest of the house is not wired very efficiently and I think several of the circuits are overloaded and some appliances which by code need to be on their own circuit are on shared circuits. Now the work area is lit up nicely thanks to the two LED shop lights. Previously this area was lit by a single light bulb on the ceiling. 

20 amp GFCI on the ceiling and an LED shop light

Wood Working 101

Disclaimer: I am not much of a wood worker. 

In the photo below are the four 2' x 8' sections of 3/4" birch plywood that I got from Home Depot and had them rip down the long length from a 4' x 8' sheet. These sheets are still quite heavy (over 35 lbs each) and not easy to maneuver or get down the basement steps by myself.

I used the table from my drill press to help support the plywood on the feed end for cutting. I have a plywood base mounted to the drill press table to increase the table space. I only have one roller support so I used it on the cut end of the table saw to support the plywood there as it came off the saw. This setup works well and really all I had to do was feed the sheet without having to worry about supporting it, which allowed me to concentrate on keeping the cut straight.

Each 2' x 8' sheet got ripped into five 4" boards, which after cutting waste ended up being 3 59/64. Left over was a single 3 3/4" board as well. I do not intend on making L-girder benchwork, but rather simple frame benchwork with corners reinforced by using galvanized framing brackets by Simpson Strongtie. This concept was borrowed from Alan of LK&O fame.

Although in my younger years I was a tool & die machinist apprentice, as I mentioned in my disclaimer I am not much of a wood worker. Still, many of the same principles from metal machining apply to woodworking as well. I soon realized that ripping such a large sheet of plywood makes it difficult to feed straight, even when using the rip fence. In metal working the work to be machined is secured using dynamically adjustable vises or clamps and is moved into the cutting tool, which insures a straight cut. Not so on the standard table saw, and it is easy to bump the work or make a crooked cut. To solve this problem, I clamped a scrap piece of wood on the other side of the sheet from the rip fence as a jig to guide the sheet through the saw. Key to this is to clamp the side jig snug but not too tight up against the sheet to be cut. This worked really well to keep the cut straight. Over the entire 8' length of each board, the tolerance ended up +/- 1/32 inch, which I am quite pleased with. The blade I use is a 60-tooth carbide ripping blade, and I use a zero-clearance blade guard around the blade to minimize underside chipping. This gives a very smooth cut even on the underside, but I will still have to sand or file all edges to minimize splinters.

After ripping two of the four 2' x 8' sections of plywood, I was left with 10 4" x 8' boards (3 59/64" x 8') and two 3 3/4" x 8' boards. When I am done I will have 20 4" boards and four 3 3/4" boards. This should be more than enough for my first TOMA module. I plan on using the 4" boards for both the legs and the horizontal top benchwork, with the legs being 48" in length. My target base level layout height is 52". The 3 3/4" boards will be used for vertical benchwork supports and additional bracing. I made sure to label the 3 3/4" boards with a Sharpie to "idiot proof" them to keep me from accidentally mixing them in with the 4" boards.

The 3/4" birch plywood from Home Depot is USA made and sanded on both sides, and so far seems to be a nice product. It will be much more structurally strong, stable, and straight as opposed to using dimensional lumber. It will also resist warping from moisture and temperature changes much better than dimensional lumber.

Next step will be to finalize the plan for the first module and to design the benchwork to go underneath it.